Cross Cut 

SAWS 



AND 



HOW TO KEEP 
THEM UP 



««v,.PH By 



W* S. TAYLOR 



Price, Twenty -five Cents 

Copyright 1922, by >V. S. Taylor 



TVs 



DEC -5 22 



CU601694 



•W 



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/■/ 



CROSS CUT SAWS AND HOW TO 
KEEP THEM UP. 

By W. S. Taylor. 

Question 1. Why can some men cut 
more timber with a two cutter cross 
cut saw than a fcur cutter? 

Answer. They do not understand 
filing' and jointing. You can pull a 
two cutter when not properly adjust- 
ed, but not a four cutter. There are 
n ore cutting- points in the four cut- 
ter which will pull harder than the 
two cutter. This gives many users 
the id'^a ^hat the two cutter will cut 
more timber. The fact is this per- 
centage of users can not put either 
saw ready for service. There are no 
two cutter saws. They are one cut- 
ters, there being one tooth set in op- 
posite direction between two rakers 
and by the loss of a tooth cr point 
there is no other tooth to take its 
place in a section, two teeth and tv/o 
rake: s. This would make a so-called 
four cutter only a two cutter, bnt they 
are known as two and fcur cutters. 

Question 2. Why do practically all 
the larger lumber and timber com- 
panies use fcur cutters only? 

Answer. jBecause when properly 
prepared the four cutter will cut 
faster and last longer, and all large 
lumber or timber companies have first 
class cross cut filers to-'keep the sav/s 
up. 

Pafjc Three 



Question 3. Why are narrow four 
cutters more practical than wider 
saws? 

Answer. Six inches and under in 
the center are narrow saws; over six 
inches are classed as wide saws. 
Probably the more a man knows about 
upkeep the more narrow saws will 
be demanded. Besides a narrow blade 
will give more clearance in the log. 
Often wide saws bucking off the log 
or, chopping out the blade with the 
ax when in a small log pinch; they 
also accumulate rosin in pine cutting. 
The narrow blade eliminates friction 
and uses less kercsene oil. They are 
manufactured on scientific mechanical 
ideas. (So the more complicated in 
construction.) Will cut easier and 
faster when understood. 

Question 4. Why are the 14x20 and 
14x19 gauge saws being demanded 
instead of the wide thick back saws? 

Answer. Because they pull lighter 
and give more clearance. 

Question 5. Should users bear 
down on the blade when sawing logs 
or timber to get a greater capacity? 

Answer. Not unless the blade has 
lost, or never received the raker ad- 
justment. The rakers sometimes 
called drags, must absolutely have 
the correct length to suit the kind of 
cutting or size of timber, either hard- 
wood or softwood, and should be 
swaged and hooked. This saw with 
proper raker adjustment will not need 
the old method of bearing down and 
pushing. 

Pu(je Four 



Question 6. What is the longest 
Fuccessful cross cut and where used? 

Answer. Twenty feet, and used on 
the Pacific coast. 

Question 7. What is the scientific 
rule applied in selecting the fastest 
cutting saw from stcck? 

Answer. The fastest cutting cross 
cut will have the a-reatest number of 
cutting: points, not less than 3-8 inch 
wide and protected by shapely teeth, 
rakers, and sufficient gullet space. 

Question 8. Should loop or end 
handles be used? 

Answer. Loop. They are usually 
shorter and can be removed or ap- 
plied quicker in case of accident. 

Question 9. Should long or short 
handles be used? 

Answer. Short. They make the 
blade run much stiffer, cut straighter 
through the log. When your saw be- 
comes short or the teeth in the cen- 
ter of saw from jointing or wear cut 
off your handles 1 inch to one fourth 
of inch of loss of teeth by wear or ser- 
vice. 

Question 10. Will the round point 
tooth cut as last as the straight 
bevel? 

Answer. Probably faster, but it 
will take longer to file a saw with 
the round point. In filing the round 
point be sure that you do not file 

Page Five 



below the jointing. This would ex- 
pose the raker, making the saw pull 
hard. 

Question 11. What is the best 
grade of steel now used in cross cut 
saws ? 

Answer. Good Tungston with a 
mild temper. All manufacturers are 
now using good steel in saws that 
will receive the hammer for swagemg 
the rakers. 

Question 12. Why do some users 
break the cutting points with setting 
hammer? 

Answer. Because they do not re- 
tain the shape and file bevel that the 
factory gave them. 

Question 13. Will the wide 14x20 
gauge saw pull as easy as the nar- 
rcw 14x20 gauge blade? 

Answer. No. See Answer to Ques- 
tion No. 3. 

Question 14. What is the standard 
circle to the cutting side of a cross 
cut saw? 

Answer. That which is obtained 
by the movement of the blade across 
the log to make every tooth cut from 
bark to bark for each stroke of the 
saw. 

Question 15. Does a standard 
cross cut saw increase or decrease in 
cutting as it wears down? 



Answer. A new saw will increase 
as the proper adjustrnent is discover- 
ed, I sualiy three to five filings and 
jointings, then a gradual decrease as 
the blade wears down to the sectional 
bar hjlding the teeth together. Never 
use a pull set especially on short 
teeth. 

Question 16. What pattern file 
shcuid be used on cross cut saws? 

Answer. Seven inch fine. Six 
inch will do. No operator can pre- 
pare a saw, with a 10 inch mill saw 
file for jointing and filing, an iron 
v/edge, back of the axe, or sledge ham- 
mer for anvil. Nail hammers, Kress 
or Woolworth hammers for setting. 
Or one eye shut for a spider. Use 
the best factory saw tools only, for 
results. 

Question 17. V/hat is a competent 
set or anvil for cross cuts? 

Answer. Factory anvils tempered 
and three times as heavy as the ham- 
mer used, say 18 to 24 ounces and 
hammer not over 10 ounces. Use 
while saw is in rack. 

Question 18. What saw tool has 
the greatest accomplishments for 
jointing the teeth on a man move- 
ment circle, and the rakers fcr any 
desired length? 

Answer. All factories build saw 
tools that will do the work. The 
secret of success is the knowledge 
of the user to give them proper ad- 
justment for the service required. 

Page Seven 



Question 19. What is the differ- 
ence in the segment ground saw, the 
crescent ground saw, the taper ground 
saw and the radial ground saw? 

Answer. None, These are factory 
catalogue names for thin back saws. 
The only difference being in the 
gauge on back of saw, which varies 
from 16 to 20 gauge on the back. All 
factories are building saws 14 gauge 
on the cutting side for a standard. 

Question 20. Why are factories us- 
ing better steel for the last five years 
in cross cuts? 

Answer. The users are demanding 
from experience a blade that will 
stand the hammer for swaging and 
hooking the raker. 

Question 21. What pattern of cress 
cuts is superior for felling trees? 

Answer. Narrow Standard. Stiff- 
ness is very essential. There are good 
combination patterns on the market. 
It is not necessary for operators to 
own and carry extra saws for felling 
trees. However, each pair of cutters 
should have two saws; the extra 
blade will always pay for itself. 

Question 22. What length of saws 
give best results? 

Answer. Long blades. And they 
should be made to go full length 
through the log. The center of the 
saw should pass entirely through the 
cut on both sides of the log, thereby 
keeping full clearance for the cutting 

Page Eight 



teeth. IS your timber is large and 
the saw short, take your Dog along 
to help you gnaw the tree down. 

Question ^3. Should the cutting 
points when too open be side filed to 
put the teeth in parallel cutting lines? 

Answer. No. Use your anvil and 
hammer and knock the set back. Do 
not forget your spider or setting 
gauge. 



Question 24. How should rakers be 
swaged and hooked? 

Answer. Never swage wider than 
set in saw, 10 to 11 gauge. Hook 
very lightly after swaging; if the 
raker is knocked low and flat it will 
refuse to take the wood. Most opera « 
tors use the hammer for both swag- 
ing and hooking the raker. This is 
faster, but if you want your saw to 
cut fast without bearing down from 
the handles, be careful with your 
hammer. Too much hooking and 
swaging is detrimental, and often 
causes the operator to become dis- 
gusted with the tools and saw. A 
small percentage of users never buy 
the same pattern twice, using saws 
from the best factory patterns on 
down to Sears and Roebuck, trying 
to locate the trouble. This class of 
users is always found on the factories 
replacement list for a new saw. Be 
careful please. Most any good filer 
can keep up circle saws, band or bar- 
rel saws, but a good high grade cress 
cut is full of mysteries and misun- 
derstandings. 

Page Nine 



Rakers must be some shorter than 
the teeth. When jointing leave the 
rakers full length of teeth, then 
swage them down with the hammer. 




FIGiUHE 2f 
SWAGH/\I& THE RhUR 



(See figure 24.) Not less than 1-96 
part of an inch, nor more than 1-64 
part of an inch, according to the tim- 
ber to be cut, the shortest raker for 
small timber, especially soft wood. 
If your saw is properly jointed to the 
man movement cutting circle the long 
raker can be maintained. However, 
experience is the best teacher for cor- 
rect swageing and hooking rakers. 

Paye Ten 



Question 25. What users demand 
thin back saws? 

Answer. All practical operators. 
They are built and the patterns are 
mechanically constructed. They also 
})ull lighter. 

QuGS'ion 26. Does the same steel 
come in more than cne temper? 

Answer. Possibly so. Factories 
are tempering cross cuts to suit the 
cliniatical conditions of the zones. A 
caw tempered for the Sou .hern coast 
will break in the frozen timber of 
the Northwest and vice versa. 

Question 27. What kind of file 
rack should be used? 

Answer. Any form will do, but a 
rack made of wood the height of the 
operators' or, filers' elbows standing 
up and circled with the cutting side 
of the saw is best. Always use a. set 
of tools that will complete the blade 
before removing from racks. This will 
discontinue or eliminate the use of 
stump sets which are uncertain, leav- 
ing variation in the set at the point 
of the tooth. Many filers are using 
hand made anvils. I use the Atkins 
No. 12 anvil. It can be shifted to 
suit all gauges desired. And Taylor's 
Patent Saw Clamp makes a complete 
cross cut outfit. 

Question 28. How should spiders 
or the setting gauge be used? 

Answer. This is the cheapest tool 
used on cross cuts, and is absolutely 

Page Eleven 



necessary for good ffervioe. New 
spiders should be jointed to suit the 
saw used. This is done by using the 
file on the feet of the spider until the 
soft foot is located, usually on the 
short or hardwood end of the spider. 

Then file down until the spider fits 
any new saw. Then when the saw 
loses its points and must be opsned, 
set the points to fit the spider. Use 
the short end for hardwood and the 
long end for softwood. 

Question 29. How should jointing 
tools be used? 

Answer. Use a highly finished '^i 

jointing tool with two side guards Ml 

with perfectly square seats or should- Ml 

ers to receive the file. Ad ust the 
file in position by using a small s.crew 




driver or pocket knife. See that the? 
screw is far enough to slightly bend 
ih2 file to the cutting circle of the 



Pafje Twelve 



blade. It is impossible to correctly 
joint your saw with the file held in 
the hand, or even the use of a cheap 
jointing- tool. If the file is used in its 
natural position, say a straight file, 
it will rest on the four cutting points 
which are close together, holding the 
file level from raker to raker because 
the file will have a sudden drop when 
it reaches the gullet space. This will 
cause the rakers to stand out on the 
cutting circle, making the two inside 
teeth shorter than the teeth next to 
the rakers. (See Figure 29.) 

These points of efficiency in upkeep 
are not understood by more than 20 
to 25 per cent of cross cut saw users 
and operators. If the rakers are too 
short the cutting will be slow and 
rough. However, a raker that is too 
long will pull harder than when too 
short. Any good filer can find his 
saw trouble by examining the dust 
from the cut. Fine (bug) dust, short 
rakers; dust should break at back of 
gullet and about as long' as a small 
match, and when the fiber of the wood 
(whiskers) show on the bottom side 
of the dust, rakers are too long. 

Question 30. How can the blade 
be made softer or harder to suit the 
different ideas of users? 

Answer. Some users complain that 
the blade is too soft. While others 
will break the points of the cutting 
teeth while setting the teeth. Both 
of the blades often shipped in the 
same box under the same pattern, 
made, milled and finished at the same 
time, by the same manufacturer. The 
only difference I have been able to 

Paye Thirteen 



find is not as a rule in any cne brand 
of saws. But it is in the different 
methods of tempering used by saw 
makers, the ma crity of whom use 
the hot blast,' with possibly one or 
more who temper their saws in hot 
Oil, which is probably protected by 
patent right and only successfully 
used by one manufacturer cf saws. 1 
use these saws because they file very 
easy, and at the same time have 85 
per cent resistance against a strain 
before they will break or kink. The 
only difference between a broken saw 
and one with a kink is that you can 
carry the kinked blade in one piece. 
No saw will run good after it has 
received a defect of any nature. 

NOTICE. 

When your blade runs very 
easy, gliding over the v/ood and rub- 
bing tne points to a rough blunt na- 
ture, especially when cutting South- 
ern pine (lobloly) which has the hard- 
est rosin knots, bring the shape of 
your cutthig point from a square to 
a diamond point. 

See Fig. No. SO. 

See Fig. No. 30A. 

See Fig. No. 30B. 

Th.'s process Vv^iil put the tooth in 
a different pcsition to receive the 
sudden shock from the setting ham- 
mer and Avill give the desired set with- 
out losing the points, just as the fac- 
tory intended the saw to be used. 
When the points are to the extreme 
(Fig 30B) just opposite to Fig. 30, 
Lhey will break from a hard stroke 
with the hammer quicker than Fig. 
30 the cutting points being too nar- 

/V(f//' Fi^urtccii 



row and thick just where the hammer 
should be applied for setting the 
teeth,. Filed in this condition (Briar 
points) should have more bevel, which 



SaOAfiE ^ POINT 




f/a. 30. A Is A Pcmcr 
B^\iEL For &£^£/^uCm/m 

will bring them down to Fig. No. 30A. 
(Never use a pull set.) Teeth should 
be set after pointing and filing. 
There are three cutting points on each 
tooth or one cutting point and two 
file corners. Note line from C to E 

Page Fifteen 



on Fig. No. 30A, the letter D for the 
cutting point and the letter F where 
the hammer should be applied when 
setting the saw. This process will 
hold the file corners C and E inside 
the 14 gauge clearance, making the 
saw run light and will make a straight, 
smooth cut on end of log. In set- 
ting a tooth bevelled as Fig. No. 30, 
the file points are often thrown out, 
as explained. Do not cut the file 
corners off with a file. Such ideas 
are wrong. The space made on each 
corner of the tooth wedges the dust 
in the space made by the file and will 
strain the tooth towards center of the 
clearance, making it pull hard and 
seem to close, when if all the file 
bevel was on the clearance side of the 
tooth the tooth would readily stand 
out against the gauge, and thereby 
hold its set much longer. Always 
joint and file the teeth, and joint the 
rakers to suit the timber to be cut, 
on all new saws, before they are used. 
The cutting teeth should be at least 
3-8 of an inch wide. Narrow teeth are 
hard to keep up. 

NOTE. 

If there is any point of up- 
keep omitted here, I will gladly give 
the desired information free of charge 
to any cutter or filer upon receipt of 
your inquiry, with stamped return en- 
velope. 

Very respectfully, 

W. S. TAYLOR, 
Box 327, Columbus, Miss. 



Page Sixteen 



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